Typically known for its classically-styled watches with top-class movements – the Hamatic being a good example – Moritz Grossmann occasionally embarks on more adventurous projects. Its latest is a collaboration with Emirates Watch Club, a band of horology enthusiasts in the United Arab Emirates.
Based on Grossmann’s signature wristwatch, the Benu Emirates Watch Club retains the wonderful cal. 100.1 movement, but with an unusual dial of German silver that’s finished with a pronounced linear graining as well as hand-engraved hour numerals.
The Benu EWC has a raw, industrial feel that’s starkly different from the average Grossmann watch. But the impression it creates at a distance belies the artisanal decoration of the dial, a paradox that makes it visually interesting.
Conceptually the dial is also interesting, because it extracts key elements of the movement and transforms them into the dial. Made of German silver just like the movement plates, the dial is diagonally brushed, and then the numerals and logo at all hand engraved, just as the balance cock is.
The dial design makes it necessary to forgo both the minute track and seconds at six, which means part of the Benu’s functionality is lost. The button at four o’clock is Grossmann’s patented hacking-release mechanism, which helps aid precise time-setting since the seconds hand can be restarted in sync with the time signal. Here the seconds is absent, as is the minute track. Still, it is probably a worthwhile concession for the design.
Named after an Egyptian god as most first-generation Grossmann models are, the EWC edition is near identical to the standard Benu. The case is steel and 41 mm in diameter with broad, long lugs that give it a largish footprint on the wrist.
Inside is the masterful cal. 100.1, a hand-wind movement with all of the decorative flourishes that mark out Grossmann movements as excellent.
Though the EWC edition was only available to club members, Grossmann does offer customisation for all of its models, so a watch along the same lines is not out of the question.
Key Facts and Price
Moritz Grossmann Benu Emirates Watch Club
Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 11.35 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Water resistance: 30 m
Dial: German silver with hand-engraved numerals and logo
Movement: Cal. 100.1
Functions: Hours and minutes
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour (2.5 Hz)
Winding: Manual wind
Power reserve: 42 hours
Strap: Alligator with pin buckle
Limited edition: 12 pieces
Availability: Only to EWC member, but Grossmann offers customisation for all models
Price: AED91,000, equivalent to US$24,800
For more, visit Grossman-Uhren.com.